The backpacks new adventure starts from the busy international Noi Bai airport in northern Vietnam with a grumpy policeman, checking our Visas. Surprisingly, everything was fine, and this turns out to be the fastest immigration check we have ever experienced. The taxi, that we had booked in advance was waiting for us and we embarked upon our first drive on the streets of Hanoi. Despite the late hour, there was heavy traffic, and the lights of the Nhat Tan Bridge looked like the Brooklyn Bridge. The lights transformed into a magical spectacle and left us excited and awaiting our adventure in Vietnam to begin.
We checked into a small hotel in the old quarters of Hanoi and although it was already late, we could not resist the urge to go out and try our first Banh Mi (at The Banhmi by Kun). We were shocked not only that the prices were extremely low (from European point of view), but the quality of the baguet and the fresh ingredients was simply amazing. The next couple of days we dedicated ourselves to Hanoi. Since we planned to visit couple of the city highlights like: Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám), Hoa Lo Prison Museum (“Hanoi Hilton”) and the Water Puppet Theatre.
We began our exploration of Hanoi with a stop at Café Giảng. This is the birthplace of the city’s iconic egg coffee. The tradition is simple, yet delightful — first, taste the sweet, velvety foam, then gently stir to blend it with the dark coffee (Robusta) beneath. It’s interesting to learn that Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee producer, right after Brazil.
Walking on foot through the crazy traffic of Hanoi’s Old Quarter is an adventure in itself – it requires concentration, timing, and a lot of praying for your life. But once you reach Hoàn Kiếm Lake, everything seems to slow down a little. Here, you shouldn’t miss taking a sneak peek into the Bà Kiệu Temple. It is a small, graceful shrine that offers a quiet moment of peace amid the city’s buzz. Just do not forget to cover your shoulders and knees in a sign of respect.
Getting to the famous Train Street can be an adventure by itself, especially if you do not have internet all the time, like we do. There are many small streets and alleys that end at somebody’s house/building, but we did not feel scared or in danger at any time in Hanoi. Getting lost is a fun way to discover new places. We stumbled across the cheapest Michelin restaurant and probably the best Pho there is: in Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su. We ordered rich, flavorful beef pho and we got complementary chillis and garlic on the table. Additionally, you can ask for the crispy breadsticks served alongside the bowl. They are perfect for soaking up the rich, aromatic broth or enjoying as a crunchy side between slurps. Enjoy and thank us in the comments below. 😊
Hanoi has a couple of train streets, but we decided to visit the one west of Hoàn Kiếm Lake. Before going, we made sure to check the train schedule, because the train passes every couple of hours. As we approached it, several people tried to rush us, claiming the train would arrive in 10 minutes and offering “spots to sit and have a drink.” Turns out, this is a common scam – our advice: just walk carefully along the rails and find your own spot. We chose the second row for sitting, which is a bit safer. Even though the train passes slowly, it carries enormous power, and anything like chairs, tables, or even people too close can get hit. From our safe point, we could watch everyone else sitting right next to the tracks, inhaling the smoke from the passing train, and honestly, even Nelly agreed it was a better choice.
On the next day we planned to do the GURU Free Walking Tour. It was the perfect way to dive deeper into Hanoi’s history, culture, and the daily lives of Vietnamese people. We learned a lot of valuable information for travelers, including local customs and events. For example, every weekend, the government organizes an event on the square between Hoàn Kiếm Lake and Note Café. We also observed some cultural practices that may surprise foreigners – such as the sale of cats and dogs in small cages at certain markets, with the purpose of eating them. Of course, especially among the younger generation in big cities, this is dying out. We hope that over time, this tradition will gradually fade.
The tour took quite a long time, so we were almost late for the evening activity which we booked the previous day. We wanted to visit the Thăng Long Water Puppet Theatre, located near Hoàn Kiếm Lake. This is a traditional Vietnamese art form that dates back to the 11th century, originating in the rice fields of northern Vietnam. It is accompanied by music, played on instruments like drums and bamboo flutes. For the price of 5 Euro, we enjoyed the 50min show and we found it to be a truly magical experience.
After the show we walked around, in search for our next amazing, cheap and very delicious Vietnamese dinner. It did not take long, and we saw a small place with plastic chairs, where tourists and locals were sitting. There was just one free table, and we decided it was destiny. We must be good people, or we have suffered a lot in previous lives, because destiny loves us. We ordered the most delicious, finger-licking, bowl-slurping dish – Bun Cha. This typically includes grilled pork (both patties and thin slices, marinated and charred over charcoal), Bún (soft, thin rice noodles), a dipping broth made with fish sauce, vinegar, sugar, lime, and pickled vegetables and fresh herbs like mint, perilla, and lettuce. Do not miss this in HANOI!!!
Secrets revealed:
- At Café Giảng, we discovered the original egg coffee — rich, creamy, and comforting, you can try the egg beer there
- Over at Đinh Café, we went for a cold egg coffee, where the barista impressed us with delicate foam art that looked almost too pretty to drink.
- We ate Bun Cha 2 times at the same place: Street kid Restaurant Hanoi, 43 P. Hàng Bè, Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
- At AHA Coffee, a more modern local chain, we fell in love with their salted iced coffee. The fresh coconut, which you can enjoy twice: first for the juice, then for the soft, sweet coconut flesh inside is another drink you can try there.
- Thăng Long Water Puppet Theatre: There are three shows every day, so tickets are usually available. However, if you want to attend a specific showtime, it’s best to arrive one day in advance to secure your seats. Ticket prices vary from €3 to €7, depending on the seating, and must be paid in cash.
- Google Maps link to the places we liked: https://maps.app.goo.gl/VsUev9EaUX4t1jyP9
Love Vietnam and the food there😎